These photgraphs were taken with my Olympus E-Volt 410 using the kit lens which is said to be really good. I’m pretty sure it would work better if i kept it cleaner but of well.
I make the HDR by taking 3 sets of bracketed exposures and then picking out from six to nine of them, Nine if i’ve just restarted my computer other wise I get an insufficient memory error even though I have 8 gigs of ram. I use Photomatix 3 to generate then tonemap the HDR. I export it as 16bit Tif file (I also save the original HDR image in a Radiance file because end up learning so much over time that can go back to old saved HDR files and make them look alot better. I can also play with them in other HDR image processing programs. Finally I export open the photo in Lightroom two and either tweak there or export the tif to Photoshop were I often use plugin called Digital Film Tools Digital Film Labs V.2.5(which is now part of Tiffen’s Dfx V2 suite of plugins. I then save a duplicate as a tif. I then import it into into Lightroom 2(64bit) and use my export presets to save it to the Flickr Uploader and to a deviantArt folder (these are full quality jpg’s about 8 mb in size) and to photobucket folder as smaller lower quality jpg’s which I then post on my Journalspace journal.
I never use anything but full manual control including manual focus. I never(very rarely) shoot anything except on the lowest ISO setting because it looks better that way. All this Auto stuff is insane. Maybe back in the past when you took a picture blindly then developed it it was important but now it’s pointless. One never even has to look into the viewfinder unless you can’t see your display (I'm currently using the live view enabled Olympus 410). Maybe all this is more important when taking pictures of people.
And another thing the whole F/stop and shutter speed thing shutter speed is ridiculous. It would be much easier if everyone just talked about the radius of the opening and the decimal equivalent of the shutter speed.